Milford Sound 2

The left hand does not seem to know what the right is up to and if you are following this blog you will have noticed two quite similar updates, you can amuse yourselves guessing who wrote which (not very difficult I think!). We have posted some photos as Jim made a trip into civilization (Te Anau). The start battery was looking like it might not last the voyage so we thought we would take the opportunity to get a new one while it is not particularly difficult to do so and it also meant some fresh
veges etc.

We have now been in Milford Sound over a week and will be looking at heading off as soon as the weather looks favourable. We have moved between two 'anchorages' in Deep Water Basin and Harrison Cove. Last night we were in Deep Water Cove watching the alarmingly close shoreline, the dinghy astern of us was grounding! I guess we are going to have to get used to anchoring in tight spots as in most of Fiordland the water is only shallow enough to anchor very close to the shore. A day of rain yesterday
produced some spectacular waterfalls down previously dry cliffs and despite today being also wet, the falls are drying up as fast as they formed. We have been for a few short walks including part the way up the Milford Track to Lake Ada and a walk up the Harrison river. According to our dated copy of the Mana cruising guide, quoting a no doubt even more dated source, there is supposed to be track by the river somewhere, the location of which remains a mystery. It was still a nice walk and Tori went
for swim in a crystal clear pool although Jim wussed out! In his defence the water was somewhat chilly.

We have been spoiled by the wildlife: dolphins, seals, penguins and even found a seahorse attached to our anchor chain. As we moved anchorages one day we were towing both dinghies and a pod of dolphins came to play, shunting the boats back and forth. We have braved the cold for 3 dives, on all of which we have seen the black coral that Fiordland is famous for. This coral is actually white and feathery looking and usually found at great depths but because of a fresh water layer on top of the salt
here, the coral is found at much shallower depths (20-40m). The last dive was spectacular with good vis and a sheer wall descending into into infinity. Also some rather large crayfish who seemed to know quite well that we were in a marine reserve.

Left hand here! The trip to Te-Anau was,again, very spectacular. I had never traveled this road and had a great trip out in glorious sun, and a great trip back in heavy rain (allegedly 50mm/hour). The quantity of water falls was impressive as was the speed with which the changes occur. Whilst I'm well aware of the weather changing it is still amazing to observe these changes and their speed. I'm not sure if the trip for the battery was "easy". Trying to lug a large heavy battery around in a rucksack,
together with a large quantity of fresh food, and still look like the pack was not heavy, and that it couldn't possibly contain anything 'dodgy' as I got on the bus was fun.

The dives have been good with spectacular drop offs. Quite intimidating to look down from 40 metres depth and know the bottom is still 240 metres further down! straight down! The dives have been cold, my good 7mm wetsuit having fallen to pieces last summer and diving in a 4mm 2-part and a 1.5mm shorty underneath! This is all part of a master plan to upgrade the gear next year as the regulators are now about 17 years old of hard use. A new dry suit perhaps!!

We have been very fortunate with the weather and had only a couple of days rain, and snow to 500 metres. The heater has decided to pack in and will only burn with a yellow flame causing little heat and loads of soot on the deck. A new heater may be acquired in Bluff ready for further south and future trips to Rangitoto and Islington Bay.

We will be unable to post photo's again until we get to another internet connection. This will most likely be in Bluff, around January. We will continue to post written extracts and update the position regularly. We should be able to provide a reasonable selection of photos eventually but it may have to wait until we have a good high speed connection.