George Sound

Motored from Milford Sound to George Sound today. Not much wind and a lumpy sea with the occasional very large swell. The wind has picked up since we arrived here and it is raining and misty, I think we got in at the right time! George Sound appears pretty with lots of waterfalls and the shores are more tree lined but it is not as spectacularly steep as Milford. We are tucked up in a little nook with the anchor down and four permanent stern and bow lines tying us to the shore. There is a small waterfall
trickling into the anchorage and a very large one gushing down just beside. On the trip down today we were visited by two pods of dolphins, one accompanying us for over an hour. Still haven't seen any whales though and I shall be complaining to LINZ as a whale symbol is quite clearly marked on our chart for Milford Sound! We really enjoyed Milford Sound but it will be nice now to be off the tourist boat route!

Milford Sound 2

The left hand does not seem to know what the right is up to and if you are following this blog you will have noticed two quite similar updates, you can amuse yourselves guessing who wrote which (not very difficult I think!). We have posted some photos as Jim made a trip into civilization (Te Anau). The start battery was looking like it might not last the voyage so we thought we would take the opportunity to get a new one while it is not particularly difficult to do so and it also meant some fresh
veges etc.

We have now been in Milford Sound over a week and will be looking at heading off as soon as the weather looks favourable. We have moved between two 'anchorages' in Deep Water Basin and Harrison Cove. Last night we were in Deep Water Cove watching the alarmingly close shoreline, the dinghy astern of us was grounding! I guess we are going to have to get used to anchoring in tight spots as in most of Fiordland the water is only shallow enough to anchor very close to the shore. A day of rain yesterday
produced some spectacular waterfalls down previously dry cliffs and despite today being also wet, the falls are drying up as fast as they formed. We have been for a few short walks including part the way up the Milford Track to Lake Ada and a walk up the Harrison river. According to our dated copy of the Mana cruising guide, quoting a no doubt even more dated source, there is supposed to be track by the river somewhere, the location of which remains a mystery. It was still a nice walk and Tori went
for swim in a crystal clear pool although Jim wussed out! In his defence the water was somewhat chilly.

We have been spoiled by the wildlife: dolphins, seals, penguins and even found a seahorse attached to our anchor chain. As we moved anchorages one day we were towing both dinghies and a pod of dolphins came to play, shunting the boats back and forth. We have braved the cold for 3 dives, on all of which we have seen the black coral that Fiordland is famous for. This coral is actually white and feathery looking and usually found at great depths but because of a fresh water layer on top of the salt
here, the coral is found at much shallower depths (20-40m). The last dive was spectacular with good vis and a sheer wall descending into into infinity. Also some rather large crayfish who seemed to know quite well that we were in a marine reserve.

Left hand here! The trip to Te-Anau was,again, very spectacular. I had never traveled this road and had a great trip out in glorious sun, and a great trip back in heavy rain (allegedly 50mm/hour). The quantity of water falls was impressive as was the speed with which the changes occur. Whilst I'm well aware of the weather changing it is still amazing to observe these changes and their speed. I'm not sure if the trip for the battery was "easy". Trying to lug a large heavy battery around in a rucksack,
together with a large quantity of fresh food, and still look like the pack was not heavy, and that it couldn't possibly contain anything 'dodgy' as I got on the bus was fun.

The dives have been good with spectacular drop offs. Quite intimidating to look down from 40 metres depth and know the bottom is still 240 metres further down! straight down! The dives have been cold, my good 7mm wetsuit having fallen to pieces last summer and diving in a 4mm 2-part and a 1.5mm shorty underneath! This is all part of a master plan to upgrade the gear next year as the regulators are now about 17 years old of hard use. A new dry suit perhaps!!

We have been very fortunate with the weather and had only a couple of days rain, and snow to 500 metres. The heater has decided to pack in and will only burn with a yellow flame causing little heat and loads of soot on the deck. A new heater may be acquired in Bluff ready for further south and future trips to Rangitoto and Islington Bay.

We will be unable to post photo's again until we get to another internet connection. This will most likely be in Bluff, around January. We will continue to post written extracts and update the position regularly. We should be able to provide a reasonable selection of photos eventually but it may have to wait until we have a good high speed connection.

A few photo

Cold and wet but nearly there! Approaching Milford.














Stunning landfall.













And then there was no wind! none, not a whisper!!

















A quick stop to fresh water wash the decks.


















Drying out at Deep Water Cove
















Approaching Harrison Cove. Mt. Pembroocke and Glacier in background.














Not a bad view to enjoy with a glass of fine wine.















No sense some people! Who would want to swim in water that cold!

















Doing the tourist thing. Hand in the waterfall, seabed 200 metres below!



















Fiordland Crested Penguins.















One of the two cloudy days we have had in nine days here!

Milford Sound

What a spectacular coast to make landfall on. High snow capped mountains appearing out of the dawn sky and getting larger as you close the coast. A tough motor-sail into SW 30/40 for the last 14 hours. A lot of water across the deck, in the cockpit and us. A few hundred yards inside the entrance saw flat calm. The back drop of the mountains, sow capped against the high sides of the fiord was again magnificent as we motored up the fiord. We stopped to admire the few and collect ourselves as we progressed
to Deep water basin.
The next day was spent drying out the boat, and fixing a few bits that had worked during the voyage south. Rule 1 don't do over 700 miles to windward down the west coast into the roaring forties as a shakedown sail. We are still drying out the boat now after 5 days!
We are currently anchored in Harrison cove. The backdrop of the Pembroke Glacier is stunning. As we read in the cockpit yesterday we could watch and hear the avalanches taking place on the Mountain.
We have been lucky enough to see some Fiordland crested penguins,seals, dolphins black coral and sandflies. A great dive today if not cool.
Off to enjoy the evening and enjoy a bottle of Pinot Gris , Owhanake Bay Estate. What more could we want in life.

Trip South and arrival in Milford Sound

Trip South
We started the trip sailing into light South westerlies with a good sail to begin with around the top of the North Island and then a motor as the wind died. Picked up a nice NW for a while, at least a whole 12h, before it was back around to the SW. We had a couple of NW changes after that but we blinked and missed them. Saw dolphins and sea birds but only one ship once we were on the west coast. A nice full moon during the passage. In general not exactly a pleasant trip. The last morning saw us motorsailing
into a freshening SW with stunning views of the Southern Alps (sorry forgot to take photos). The SW 'freshened' into a good 30-40 knots with us taking green water over the decks leaving the wind generator dripping. A long day spent bashing into it before we reached the entrance to Milford Sound in the late afternoon.

Arrival
We were very glad to make the sound and hit the calm water inside. Blue skies and snow capped mountains and seals playing. Almost made the trip down worthwhile! We had a lovely motor up the sound in the late afternoon and tied up at the fishing boat pile moorings in Deep Water Cove. After a very welcome shower we managed to make it to the pub before the kitchen closed. The next day was just as fine which was just as well as we discovered several leaks (including into one of the book lockers) where
the chain plates had been working. Spent the day drying things out, cleaning and tightening bolts. Moral of the story is not to make your shakedown cruise after a major refit an 8 day trip down the west coast into the roaring forties! Started raining last night and there is fresh snow on the tops and more rain and mist today and a few more waterfalls than there were yesterday. Was hoping to post some photos with this update but while we found internet access it was very very slow. This evening we
moved across the bay to anchor (15m of water and we are practically on the beach). We edged up to a cliff face on the way getting so close you could (and I did) reach out and touch the rock. The skies are clearing and it looks like tomorrow is going to be sunny.

Launched!!

On Passage to Milford, weather permitting!! Currently motor sailing as light wind but reasonable residual swell slowing progress. Updated position are available on 'where is Elenya' link. click on postion to read any reported comments. Dolphins as we passed Cape Reinga last night. Albatross passing by on the face of the swells today.

Bay of Islands

Left Whangarei on Tuesday and were having such a good sail we decided to continue on to Tutukaka. Spent a day there, walked over to Ngungaru and had dinner on board Spindrift II. Had another good sail up to Deep Water Cove in the Bay of Islands. Spent a very nice night anchored there and dived the Canterbury the next day. The Canterbury is a purpose sunk wreck of an old frigate. Not much life on it yet, some nice anenomes. Water was freezing though! (why are we going south again?!!). We are now in Opua waiting for some good weather to head north. Walked over to Pahia today to shop and internet etc