Sunday, October 07, 2018

To Lyttelton


We left Fiordland with a  storm warning for Puysegur and a gale warning for Foveaux and had a reasonable sail in 20-30 knots to Port William in Stewart Island, arriving just after dark. We let a front go through overnight and had a fairly flat motor up the East coast to Lyttelton. Hector’s dolphins provided a greeting service just outside the harbour.

Preservation Inlet

Abandoned Machinery at the Alpha Battery

Looking back toward Puysegur Point Lighthouse

Elenya anchored in Otago Retreat


Our first anchorage in Preservation Inlet was Cuttle Cove, the site of an old whaling station, then we moved across to Kisbee Bay, which was the site of the township of Cromarty that flourished when gold was mined and timber sawed here, but very little remains today. We went for a walk up to the Morningstar mine and Alpha Battery and stopped in to say hi to the caretakers at Preservation Lodge. Tori was looking forward to trying her luck when the scallop season opened in October, but only managed to get two. On our last day in Fiordland we walked up to Puysegur Point Lighthouse. The swells breaking on the rocks below were quite impressive and we wondered what they would have been like in the 7 m swells we had had recently.

Dusky Sound


We had a good run up to Fiordland, jumped on the back of a front and sailed in 20-30 knots to Dusky Sound, although the swell was up to 4 m at times so things were a bit bouncy. We made for Luncheon Cove, one of our favourite spots in the sound with one of the major positive factors being the relative lack of sandflies. We tied up using the permanent bow and stern mooring lines there and spent some time walking ashore and kayaking around the islands outside. When we first arrived there were quite a few fur seal pups around. One tried to see if our kayak was a good haul out spot but was pushed off by his friend who also wanted a turn. We bought a sectional sea kayak a while back and this trip is our first real trial of it, so far we really like it (although we haven’t totally gone over to the dark side, aka flat water paddling). We went for trips in the yacht to Supper Cove and to the head of Vancouver Arm in the interconnected Breaksea Sound. But kept returning to Luncheon Cove to hide from the weather or the sandflies. Tori went for a few dives, black  and red coral, bright yellow zooanthids, nudibranchs, although the vis wasn’t as good as we have had previously in Fiordland (which was basically stunning). We checked out some of the historical sites in Dusky, including Astronomers Point, where Cook tied up for five weeks, charting the area and taking astronomical observations to fix the position of the South Island and the site of Richard Henry’s house. Richard Henry lived in the sound in the early 1900’s and worked to try to protect the endangered kakapo.




View of Dusky Sound from Anchor Island

Looking out to sea from Anchor Island


 

Vancouver Arm
Vancouver Arm